Bánh Canh Cá Lóc (Hue Snakehead Fish Thick Noodle Soup)

A comforting Hue soup of thick, chewy hand-cut noodles in a light broth with chunks of seasoned snakehead fish, finished with scallion, pepper and chilli. An everyday local favourite.

Bánh canh cá lóc is a hearty noodle soup that Hue residents eat at any time of day, from breakfast to a late dinner. The noodles are thick and chewy, made from rice or tapioca flour, and in the best-known stalls the dough is rolled and cut to order and dropped straight into the pot. The broth is simmered from snakehead fish and bones and kept light and clear; a little annatto oil gives it a golden tint. The fish is taken off the bone, seasoned and cooked separately so it stays firm and flavourful before being added to the bowl with plenty of scallion, black pepper and fresh chilli. Optional extras include quail eggs or fish roe. The dish is strongly associated with Thủy Dương, a stretch of the old highway toward Phú Bài airport lined with bánh canh stalls; Hàn Thuyên street in the city centre is another well-known spot. It is filling, inexpensive and milder than bún bò Huế, making it a good choice for travellers who prefer fish to beef.