Bún Mắm Nêm (Rice Noodles with Fermented Anchovy Sauce)

A bold, no-broth noodle dish popular in Hue: cold rice vermicelli, sliced pork and fresh herbs dressed with pungent fermented anchovy sauce. Not for the faint of heart, but very local.

Bún mắm nêm is a dry noodle dish that showcases mắm nêm, a strong fermented anchovy sauce used widely in central Vietnam. In Hue it is typically served as a bowl of rice vermicelli topped with slices of boiled pork or pork belly, sometimes roast pork, along with shredded green papaya or banana blossom, cucumber, fresh herbs and crushed peanuts. The sauce is seasoned with garlic, chilli, sugar and pineapple to soften its intensity, then poured over everything and mixed thoroughly at the table. The flavour is salty, pungent, sweet and spicy all at once, and the aroma is noticeably stronger than ordinary fish sauce. Locals eat it for lunch or as an afternoon meal, often at small stalls and markets. For travellers, it is an honest taste of everyday Hue eating rather than a refined specialty. If you enjoy assertive fermented flavours, it is very rewarding; if you are unsure, start with a small portion.