Bún Nghệ (Hue Turmeric Noodles with Pork Offal)

A humble Hue street snack of rice vermicelli tossed with fresh turmeric, stir-fried pork offal and Vietnamese coriander. Bright yellow, peppery and very local.

Bún nghệ, or bún lòng xào nghệ, is one of Hue's most local street foods and rarely appears on tourist menus. Pork offal, typically intestines, liver and boiled blood, is cleaned carefully, marinated with fish sauce, pepper and pounded fresh turmeric, then stir-fried with nén, a small shallot-like bulb common in central Vietnamese cooking. Rice vermicelli is tossed in the same golden turmeric oil, and the bowl is finished with a generous handful of rau răm (Vietnamese coriander) and chilli. Locals mix everything together and eat it warm from small bowls at street stalls, which cluster around the gates of Đông Ba, An Cựu and Bến Ngự markets, usually as an afternoon snack. The flavour is earthy and peppery from the turmeric, with a rich, chewy texture from the offal; the slightly crisped noodles from the bottom of the pan are considered a treat. Hue families also regard it as a warming home remedy in cold weather. It is an inexpensive, adventurous taste of everyday Hue for travellers comfortable with offal.